
I Knew the Hollywood Version of My Parents’ Country. Returning There With Them Was Entirely Different.
Hà Nội The Old Quarter in Hanoi was a cacophony of rumbling motorbikes and screaming vendors. The perfume of incense swirled in the heavy air with the smells of car exhaust and burning charcoal. But at Hồ Hoàn Kiếm—the Lake of the Returned Sword—the world …